‘Take Every Wave’ captures fearless, big wave surfer Laird Hamilton – Orange County Register

When I heard the title of the new movie, “Take Every Wave,” I was thinking it sounded like something very aggressive. Like there is this dude that I surf with that we call “every wave Dave” because he takes every wave.

When I saw that this movie is about the life of Laird Hamilton, I realized that I was correct. Not too many more aggressive surfers than Hamilton, but in this case I do not mean it in a negative fashion.

Hamilton is one of a kind, the absolute best big wave surfer ever and innovator of both tow in surfing and the foil application to surfboards. He charges giant surf the same way a top young surfer charges small waves, full on and all out. There is no one even close to his level.

Yes, others are riding extreme size waves. That is true. But most are riding for their lives, where Hamilton is out there pushing the limits fearlessly. The most interesting quote in the movie, in my opinion, came from Buzzy Kerbox when he said, “Laird’s fear gene doesn’t seem to be working.” I thought that was perfect.

O.K. let me fill you in on the movie. First off, I thought it was fabulous and am giving it a 5 Fins up (out of 5) Corky rating. It pretty much covers Hamilton’s life from birth to the present in a very honest way — using film clips and interviews with various surfers and important people in his life to get an in-depth perspective on the dude and his various stages of growth.

I was supposed to be one of the surfers interviewed but scheduling between myself and the producer, Rory Kennedy, never worked out.

Laird and I go back to when he was only a few months old. More on that in a minute — back to the movie.  One of the really cool things about this look at Hamilton is that there is pretty much nothing left out; you get a really good look at exactly who and what the dude is.

He is an ultimate waterman and his life from very early on to right this minute has been based around the ocean and how he can draw energy from it in all kinds of…

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