One in a series on the clothes that had a moment at Paris Fashion Week:
PARIS — Happy punks.
It seems to read like an oxymoron, but perhaps it’s not. Maybe the dominant image of a punk rocker as some steely urbanite fueled by rage and subversiveness has been all wrong. Or at too narrow. Maybe punks always had some inner sunny place where they quietly revel in their joy?
If so, then designer Junya Watanabe found it — and explored it beautifully for his spring 2018 runway.
Watanabe has been enamored with punk rock in recent years, and he has expressed that fascination through collections filled with ripped tartans, spiked accessories and enough hair glue to outfit half the Parisian population with a mohawk.
But on a gray morning, at the Université Paris Descartes, there was light and joy and pleasure on the runway, along with his punkish women. Watanabe wanted to explore the idea of taking the abstract shapes that appear in nature, that are organic rather than strictly geometric, and transform them into clothes. To help in that endeavor, he turned to Marimekko, the Finnish textile company known for its chipper prints.