East End Eats: A Bright Debut for Lulu Kitchen

Diners at the new Lulu Kitchen in Sag Harbor
Durell Godfrey

Lulu Kitchen and Bar
126 Main Street
Sag Harbor
631-725-0900
Seven days

Lulu Kitchen and Bar opened on Sag Harbor’s Main Street a few weeks ago and I like it very much. 

It is big and beautiful with an open kitchen, a wood-burning oven, and a trellised patio in the back. The space has always had a long, narrow railroad car feel to it but now it has graduated from the Acela to the Orient Express. It has rustic wood floors, exposed brick walls, skylights, and lots of smoky mirrors. There are banquettes, comfortable leather chairs, and a long zinc bar.

The open kitchen, which is about midway through the restaurant, has dramatic displays of the house-made breads, and tall glass cylinders filled with heads of cauliflower, kind of like those restaurants with lobster tanks where you point to the crustacean you’d like to eat. Whole roasted cauliflower is the “bloomin’ onion” of the moment, and this place does a real showstopper version of it.

The bread served before the meal is delicious and chewy and dusty with residual flour. For appetizers we ordered the cauliflower monster, tomato tartare, burrata, Bibb lettuce salad, and some Montauk Pearl oysters. 

The cauliflower comes out on a parchment-paper-covered platter with a big ol’ steak knife in the middle of it. Quelle dramatique! The menu says it’s enough for two to three people but I would say four. It is coated with tahini and white balsamic vinaigrette, drizzled with mint oil, topped with some roasted Long Island grapes, and sprinkled with toasted sesame seeds and microgreens. It isn’t crunchy on the outside, but it does have some satisfying char on it. The slightly smoky, earthy cauliflower pairs well with the tangy grapes. The whole thing was delicious, and there was still enough to take home.

The tomato tartare was a more diminutive portion, beautifully plated with marinated bits of tomato, roasted…

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